Hazelnut Torte

The finishing touch: Cream rosettes,
berry jam, and whole hazelnuts.

This three-tiered flourless torte is a show-stopper! Although many people claim to be this recipe’s originator, I’m not one of them. Tortes are usually of European origin, but I have no idea who came up with this wonderful recipe. To make the instructions easier to follow, I’ve modified them slightly from the original. As with many tortes, ground nuts take the place of flour, resulting in a light, airy texture. This torte’s nutty taste contrasts fabulously with the whipped cream rosettes and berry jam that finish it so beautifully. 

Through hard experience, I’ve learned to keep only a small quantity of nuts in the kitchen cupboard, and to keep the mother lode labeled and dated in a sealed bag in the freezer. When nuts go stale, they sometimes taste “off,” or even rancid. Take care in storing them. 

This torte is ideal for a buffet. It’s a large and fancy dessert, so I don’t prepare it often. The last time I made it, however, was memorable. As I set the torte on the table, everyone “Ooohed” and “Aaahed” (This cake definitely draws that kind of attention). As we tucked in, happily eating and talking, one of my guests became red-faced - hands clutching throat, eyes bugging out, swollen tongue protruding, upper body wobbling. No one noticed.

“More cake?” I asked my guests. Everyone had seconds except my now purple-faced friend, who choked out an indecipherable “Ccchhh!” “Speak up!” I chided. “I can’t understand what you’re saying when your mouth is full!” I am far too polite and far too discreet to give you her initials, but her name is Shelley Fralic.

(Shelley’s Editing Note: No hyperbole has been spared in this recounting) 

Fortunately, Shelley didn’t keel over and die, because no one would have actually noticed. But she did discover, that unfortunate day, that she had a severe allergy to hazelnuts. Hey! I have a severe allergy to fattening foods, but I’ll still eat this lovely torte anywhere, anytime.

Hazelnut Torte:

To Prepare the Torte:

3 c. (750 mL) skinned toasted hazelnuts, lightly packed, divided (see Note)
6 eggs, separated
1-¼ c. (310 mL) granulated sugar, divided
¼ c. (60 mL) fine, dry breadcrumbs
1 tsp. (5 mL) baking powder
2 tsp. (10 mL) grated lemon rind
⅛ tsp. (1.2 mL) salt

Preheat oven to 350 deg. F. Grease and flour sides of three 8-in. (20 cm) layer cake pans, lining bottoms with parchment paper trimmed to fit. 

Trace outline of pans onto parchment paper.

Trace pans’ exterior outline, trimming away 
1/4-in. (0.6 cm) to fit interior of pans snugly.

Before starting, measure and lay out ingredients for cake batter. 

Chop hazelnuts finely, keeping some whole to top torte.

Grate lemon finely using zester.

In medium bowl, beat egg yolks, gradually beating in ¾ c. (180 mL) sugar and continuing to beat at high speed until thick and light colored. 

Separate room-temperature egg yolks from whites.

Into well beaten yolks, stir 1-½ c. (375 mL) of the finely chopped nuts, bread crumbs, baking powder, lemon zest, and salt.

Add nuts, crumbs, baking powder, zest, salt to yolks.

Chill egg whites. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, gradually beating in remaining 3/4 c. (180 mL) sugar. Continue to beat until stiff. 

Beat chilled egg whites ...

Until stiff. Add some to yolks.

Fold about ¼ of 

stiffly beaten egg whites into yolk-nut mixture. Return and fold yolk mixture gently but quickly into remaining whites.

Use an under-over folding motion to
incorporate yolk mixture into whites.

Spoon into prepared pans.

Turn into prepared pans and bake about 20 min. or until tops spring back when touched lightly in the middle. Cool slightly in pans before turning out on racks. Peel away parchment paper while cakes are still warm.

Note: Set aside 1-½ c. (375 mL) finely ground reserved nuts for mixing into batter, ¾ c. (180 mL) for filling, and ¾ c. (180 mL) to press onto outside of torte.

To Prepare the Filling:

2 tsp. (10 mL) unflavored gelatin

2 tbsp. (30 mL) cold water

2-½ c. (625 mL) whipping cream (35% heavy cream) 

½ c. (125 mL) sifted icing sugar (“powdered” or “confectioners” sugar)

½ tsp. (2.5 mL) almond extract

½ tsp. (2.5 mL) vanilla extract

Combine gelatin and cold water in small heat-proof dish and let stand 5 minutes. Set dish in a pan of simmering water, heating until gelatin dissolves. Cool slightly. Whip cream and icing sugar until soft peaks form. Beat in almond and vanilla extracts. Slowly pour in cooled gelatin, continuously beating until cream stiffens. Using two bowls, divide whipped cream mixture not quite in half, folding ¾ c. (180 mL) of the reserved, ground nuts into the smaller of the two portions. 

Fold finely ground nuts into stiffened whipped cream.

Fill cream between bottom two layers, leaving top third bare.

Evenly divide this smaller portion between the bottom two torte layers, spreading almost to the edges. Place third layer on top, leaving bare. Chill at least 1 hr. to stabilize. Reserve remaining whipped cream in refrigerator, to frost sides of torte.

To Prepare the Frosting:

Reserved whipping cream

Reserved nuts

⅓ c. (79 mL) high-quality raspberry, strawberry, or cherry jam

Whole hazelnuts, as required

When torte has been thoroughly chilled, ice sides with whipped cream, extending cream slightly above torte’s top edge. Chill to firm. Using a rosette nozzle, fill piping bag with remaining cream, storing filled bag in refrigerator until needed. When torte has been well-chilled, spread top with cherry jam to ½-in. (1.2 cm) from edge. Remove cream-filled piping bag from refrigerator, fluting 1-inch rosettes around cake edge, barely touching jam. 

Press finely chopped nuts around cake edge. Decorate with
jam and cream rosettes, pressing nut into center of each.

Press whole hazelnut into centre of each piped rosette. Using the slightly cupped palm of your hand, press remaining ¾ c. (180 mL) finely ground nuts lightly into cream on sides of torte. Chill several hours. Serves 12.